Tuesday, August 12, 2014

The Summer Meal I Can't Stop Eating

Nothing beats a Saturday stroll through your local farmer's market, gathering a fresh bounty of just-picked goodness. It can be super challenging in the South to eat healthfully when-- let's be honest-- the fried chicken is usually way better than bacon bit, shredded cheddar, and iceberg lettuce (all from a bag) smothered in ranch salad on the menu. And while it feels healthier on your conscious, it's probably not much better in terms of nutrition or calories. So, when summer rolls around, I get so excited because it's the one time when the South shines in all of its homegrown glory for a small season, garden trumps grease.

I'm always on the hunt for recipes that showcase summer harvest, and this Summer Succotash from Frank Stitt is arguably my favorite (I'll share some others that I love later). For all of you non-Southerners who might not know, Frank Stitt is the king of Southern cuisine and he rules Alabama with his culinary kingdom-- the biggest jewel in his crown is his flagship restaurant, Highlands Bar and Grill (though others will argue with you about that). And, it's no surprise that he hails from the most glorious place in Alabama where the cream of the crop are born and bred: Cullman. He is my hometown hero. You can find the recipe in his cookbook, THE SOUTHERN TABLE. It's a must-read. And if you ever have fresh crab meat, you will never eat a better crab cake than the one in his book. For the succotash, sherry vinegar and good olive oil make this-- so make sure to bite the bullet and buy the good stuff.

Bonus: this meal is even better the next day for leftovers. Because most of meals that I eat at home are for a party of one, it's tough to find healthy veggie-rich meals that hold up for a few days. I make the succotash but add the herbs and cook the fish individually each night. The herbs, especially the basil, tend to wilt after 24 hrs.





For the succotash
1/2 small red onion, cut into 1-inch-thick slices
1 cup cooked lady peas (or substitute pink-eyes, crowders, or cranberry beans)
1/4 cup pot liquor from the peas reserved
2 tomatoes, seeded and cut into 1/4-inch dice (I prefer heirloom cherry tomatoes. They're so sweet and delish!)
2 ears corn, husked, boiled for 4 minutes, and kernels cut off the cob (I like Silver Queen-- the sweeter ones are best against the smokiness of the charred onion)
1 small shallot, finely minced
4 basil leaves, torn into small pieces
4 sprigs dill leaves, coarsely chopped
A few chives, finely chopped
1 tablespoon sherry vinegar
Kosher salt and freshly ground white pepper to taste
3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil, plus extra for drizzling if desired
1 tablespoon vegetable oil, such as canola
1 lemon, cut into wedges

For the flounder 
Four 6- to 8-ounce flounder fillets, skin on (Frank calls for flounder, but I've had a hard time finding it so I normally go with salmon. I've also done snapper and grouper-- any light, white fish is great. And in Culllman, fresh seafood is a challenge so you could do steak or chicken)
salt and pepper
1.Make the succotash. Prepare a hot grill or preheat the broiler. Grill or broil the onion slices, turning once, until lightly charred on both sides, 3 to 4 minutes per side. Let cool, then cut into 1/4-inch-dice.
2. Combine vegetables. In a large bowl, combine the charred onion, peas, tomatoes, corn, shallot, basil, dill, and chives. Stir in the sherry vinegar and season with salt and pepper. Stir in the olive oil, taste, and adjust the seasoning. Set aside.
3. Prepare the flounder. Heat a heavy skillet (cast iron works great) just large enough to hold the fillets over medium-high heat. Season the fish with salt and pepper. Add the oil to the hot skillet and heat until shimmering. Reduce the heat to medium, place the fillets skin side up in the skillet, and cook until nicely golden on the first side, 3 to 4 minutes. Carefully turn the fish and cook until just done, another 3 to 4 minutes. (Peek inside one fillet to check for doneness -- the thickest part should have turned to a pearly white.) While the fish finishes cooking, add the succotash and pea pot liquor to a saute pan and cook over medium heat until heated through. 4. Serve. Transfer the fish to serving plates and serve with the succotash and the lemon wedges. Drizzle each fillet with a splash of olive oil if desired.

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